5 Reasons Why Tbilisi Is NOT Worth Visiting
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Tbilisi is not worth visiting for vacation. Compared to Baku and Yerevan, Tbilisi is more expensive, less friendly, and less safe. Most attractions are overrated and seasonal. This article is to help you manage your expectations for the city before your visit.
I just finished my recent vacation in the Caucasus. During the vacation, I spent 5 days in Tbilisi with 1 or close to two full days fully budgeted for the city. And I regretted my decision. Before my visit, I found that most of the online travel blogs, IG, or YouTubers seem to “promote” and advocate for the city as cheap, friendly, and worth visiting.
Yet, based on my experience is quite the opposite. This is on another hand the least worth visiting city in Caucasus. Check out the below 5 reasons based on my personal experience.
Tbilisi Is Expensive
Tbilisi is more expensive than its neighbourhood capital city namely Baku and Yerevan. Although it is around 20% cheaper than most of the developed cities like Hong Kong, Singapore, the US, and other Western European cities, it is at least 30% more expensive compared to Azerbaijan or Armenia.
Given the economy of Georgia is similar to the other two Caucasian Countries, I suppose comparing it to the other two is fairer than using advanced economy standards.
Accommodation
In particular for accommodation, in Baku or Yerevan, I can book a comfortable room in a hostel/boutique hotel or guest house for two persons for around 12 USD and 15 USD per night. Additionally, the rooms are spacious, comfortable with good hot water, and located near the city center.
Meanwhile, for Tbilisi the same would cost you around 30 USD. Unless you book a less comfortable hostel with 20 minutes walk from the city which I tried and unbearable.
The Food
For less than 30 USD, I had very hearty Azerbaijani or Armenian national cuisines in Baku and Yerevan respectively with live music. However, the same 30 USD in Tbilisi could only offer me a simple meal (namely two soups, one appetizer, and a plate of Khinkali (a local dumpling) in a decent restaurant.
Even in supermarkets like Carrefour, the food prices are higher in Hong Kong and London than in other neighborhood Countries. Even at the Foor Court at the Carrefour, it would cost you more than 5 USD for a small pizza. For a shot at a random tram bar during the daytime, a shot of B52 would be 8 USD plus.
Later on, we found that we would rather use Bolt food to experience the national dishes in a more economical way.
Other Items
Attractions the price level is similar to the level of Baku or Yerevan. However, the Sulfur Bath on the other hand is highly priced at at least 150 GEL (~ 52 USD) per hour not including any massage service.
On the other hand, it is probably slightly cheaper than a short-distance Bolt ride. But a less convenient public transport system, especially for transit to the airport where Baku is a lot better.
Tbilisi Is The Most Touristy (And Not Friendly) In the Caucasus
I am not sure if this is due to the recent over-promotion for the city. The city has become very touristy and commercial. While I was in Baku or Yerevan, people would treat tourists with curiosity and a warm welcome. In Tbilisi, people would first greet you by asking where you are from, followed by the next question asking you if you want to pay for a day tour.
On my first day in Tbilisi, I got bumped by a local asking me for free Lari (GEL) even before I exchanged it for local currency. Not to mention on the next day, I got forced on the wrong order in a restaurant (Thus, I chose to use Bolt Food since then).
Instead of being welcomed, I felt myself being treated as an ATM there. Ironically, hospitality is a lot better in small towns like Gori, where the locals would enthusiastically offer help without any economic incentives. So I suppose, this problem is Tbilisi-specific.
Most Attractions Are Overrated
There are multiple attractions in the city center i.e. the ruined wall, National Botanical Garden, Mother of Georgia, and Persian-style sulfur bath. Outside of the central areas, there are options like Mtatsminda Park and Chronicle of Georgia.
Yet, with limited time, I would rather spend a day in Gori with the Stalin Museum (historical significance as Stalin’s birthplace), the nature wonders at Uplistiskhe, the burning mountain & mud volcano in Baku, or the genocide museum of Armenia (detailed story for recent history of Armenia).
The attractions in Tbilisi are good but not to the extent of a must-go. In fact, if you follow my itinerary, you can cover the most in 1 day or use the leftover time from the day tour from Tbilisi.
Tbilisi Attractions Are Seasonal
Unlike Gori and Gaudauri, where you can see the snow fortress and mountains even in the winter, there is no snow in December for Tbilisi. That means during that time you will be seeing a national garden with essentially nothing. Unlike the other cities, Tbilisi fails to provide you with a snowy white city landscape during the winter. However, you will still need to suffer the cold weather for around 4 – 8 degrees Celsius.
Less Food Of Choices
If you care about your daily protein intake, you will have a hard in Tbilisi. Most of the local food there is carbs-intensive. The Khinkali (big dumplings that you see everywhere), the Khachapuri (baked pizza with cheese and egg), and Lobiani (bean-filled bread).
While they do have meat-based national cuisines like Khashlama (lamb/beef stew), Shkmeruli (chicken with garlic and yogurt source), and Ostri (spicy beef stew). A single dish of the local meat cuisine would be over 32 GEL (over 10 USD). Furthermore, most restaurants seem to promote carbs cuisine more.
You could hardly find good meat in local cuisine unless you use Bolt Food there.
You Feel Less Safe
In Tbilisi, there appears to be a higher visibility of homelessness and individuals seeking assistance compared to Yerevan and Baku, which may contribute to a sense of unease for some visitors. I could not find a single homeless person in Baku and seldom see them even in more remote cities like Gori. Additionally, the wine or spirits in Tbilisi is very cheap. While it is good for wine tasting, it also leads to drinking problems in the city, especially during the night. During my visit, I only saw the law enforcement standby for a peaceful protest at Liberty Square. However, there is essentially no security or patrol near the bar area.
Conclusion: But a BIG BUT!
Tbilisi is very overrated online. It is not worth visiting as a single location. But it is worth passing by or staying. Because it is the center of others like Gori, Kazbegi, Batumi, and Gudauri. For example, going to Gori from Tibilisi only costs you 5 GEL and less than 50 minutes.
As for wider Caucasus trip planning, Tbilisi is likely the next destination after Azerbaijan as the capital of Georgia. Because of political tension between Azerbaijan and Armenia, you cannot go from one Country to another directly. So the sequence would always be Azerbaijan to Georgia and then to Armenia for a full Caucasus vacation.
So don’t budget too many of your vacation days on Tbilisi, but instead, use it as a base in Georgia for more wonderful attractions!
Feel free to leave me a comment if you have any inquiries.
